I have indulged in a flight of fancy, and created a completely out of season garment. I like to think of it as advanced needs anticipation sewing. It’s a birthday present for a little girl next month and I am really hoping it will fit her come September, as you never know how quickly a toddler is going to grow. She’s allergic to wool (sensitive skin) and I was determined she should have a warm winter coat. So this is still a wool coat, but interlined, so all exposed fabric next to skin is cotton.
Welcome to Burda 9456, which I have modified somewhat (added lining, used contrasting fabric for pockets, collar and box pleat, added seam allowances and interlined) to create a lady bird effect. It’s meant I had to cut out everything three times, and I’ve learned that when working on a small scale turn of cloth does matter. The pesky sleeves needed tweaking as the fabric I used for the interlining rumpled when turned right side out because (had not realised in advance) the space was smaller. I had to create a tiny tuck to fix the problem.
Pattern flaws: the neck seam is bulky where the back box pleat joins it. I still can’t tell if the welt flap should be on the front or back. Have had to guess and added to the back of the pocket. The sleeves seem narrow (could be my bulky fabric) so have widened them retrospectively by 5mm – a right pain after you have already overlocked and trimmed them!.
What I am pleased with is the bound button holes which I made using the lining fabric with added interfacing to make it stiffer. They have worked out very well (only the second time I have done it). The buttons are gorgeous, nice shiny round gleaming ones. The whole thing is designed to be cold washed, as I have thoroughly pre shrunk everything. The lovely cashmere wool blend fabric I got for a song (£5.95 a meter!) shrank quite a bit, making for a slightly more bulky interlining than planned in terms of weight. It’s going to be hopefully a very cozy coat for the freezing winters up in Liverpool. Now my favourite bit, photos!