I have now sewn up the toile skirt and attached it to the bodice. The good news, it fits, the pleats work well, and the skirt is lovely and full. The only issue I saw which needed tackling was that the mock waistband wasn’t sitting flat, but standing out like another fold of the skirt. In short, the skirt was too full at the front.
The dress was duly paraded in front of my tutor for perusal and advice. She helped me re pin it to take out the excess fullness. In the process it’s loss some of it’s curve, which I’m hoping to regain in the redrafted skirt front. Unfortunately, I’ve been told my overlapping technique of symmetrical front skirt pieces is not going to work too well, as due to the curve they are actually asymmetric. So I have to draft another skirt piece (yay, not!). I had hoped I’d got everything drafted by this stage.
One further issue raised by my tutor was grain. I have zilch previous experience cutting out circle skirts, so just aligned the edge of the skirt pieces with the selvage as I would with the bodice pieces. Being a circle skirt, this means other sections of the skirt are NOT on grain. Apparently this affects the hang of the skirt. She said the front and back centre seams should be on grain. I’ve been left a tad confused after my fabric shop said that if you were matching a stripe than it would not be on grain. So I guess this is not always true.
I still have to attach the waistband, but here’s an idea of what it looks like. One further photo, I’ve dyed the mini dress using the dye I intend to use for the real thing. Let me say hand dyeing is a PAIN. Stir for 15 minutes constantly, then regularly for 45 minutes? no thanks in future. If you look closely its a tiny bit patchy. The final version should come out a little bit less intense as there will be more fabric to dye. I thought a test run would be a good idea.
you can finally see the three box pleats properly. Just the right size, otherwise it would add too much bulk
for once a well fitting back with no adjustments, something I often have to do
hello sunflower yellow
My washing machine should do a better job than me (fingers crossed). I am a little nervous as this fabric isn’t produced any more so I only have one shot.