excess fabric and alterations

I had high hopes for Burda 6722, having seen someone else review a lovely version. They had only needed to shorten the waist. If only my version had been as simple.

Alas, apart from lengthening the skirt by 20cm (a given, if I didn’t want to to create a top instead of a dress), extensive work was required to create a garment which looked flattering.

Here’s a list:

* shortened waist by 1cm
* took out lots of bunching fabric in my mid back by removing an almond shape wedge from the back (on top of the shortened waist) of another 1.5cm in total
* took in the sides from just above the waist to mid hip several times as it was way too big. Maybe a few inches in total?
* reduced the length of the sleeves to create cap sleeves

It’s been a relief to get it finished, as although technically it’s very quick to put together, I’ve spent the better part of an afternoon repeatedly trying it on to check if the adjustments I had made worked.

The nice thing about working with fabric which contains evenly spaced lines is that it’s nice and easy to keep things straight, for example when hemming. It does mean you have to carefully lay out your pattern pieces if you want all those nice lines to match at the side seams (I am very fussy about this!). If you look carefully at the photos below, I am pleased to say both side seams and sleeves all match 🙂

I think I am going to need to top stitch the neckline, as due to the facing instructions (you fold the fabric over instead of the usual attach and sew) it shifts about a bit. Hopefully I will have photos soon of me wearing it. In the mean time, here’s the dress dummy showing the results:

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Making short work of using up fabric

I’ve been busy cutting up the latest fabric (a cotton jersey) for a new project, which will be Burda 6722. It’s a nice navy, with a small white stripe. I quickly realised I was going to have leftover wasted fabric. I struggle not to make use of leftovers, so quickly succumbed to a mini project to make the best use of the extras.

I downloaded a pattern from a small independent called Boo Lè Heart (not something I usually do as I can’t be bothered to stick lots of pages together) but as these were shorts it was very quick. They were also nice and cheap (a few pounds) so fit the bill.

I quickly discovered that my fabric didn’t have enough stretch when I cut out the waist band. Not being in the habit of wearing corsets with shorts, some modifications were clearly in order. Luckily I hadn’t cut anything else out yet.

Changes made:

Added panel inserts in to waistband (5cm per panel), used wider seam allowance of 1cm for the back facing panel seams to prevent gapping at the back, and 5mm seams for the front facing seams of the panel.

Added a total of 8cm to the side seams (so 2cm per pattern piece side).

Added 3cm to the length for modesty

Changed the depth of the crotch curve by 5mm by reducing the seam allowance.

Reduced the waistband seam allowance to 5mm as I needed as much height as I could get.

Still need to finish attaching the inside of the waistband and complete the hemming. Currently only used 5mm (recommended to use 1cm, turn, then another cm).

But I am pleased with how these are turning out (also feeling proud I got all those lines to match up!). These aren’t intended for public outings, my fitness classes have been getting harder due to the heat so I hope these will help keep me more comfortable.